Korea, Part I: Travel.
Getting there
Like most foreign countries, Korea requires travel to get there. Although, not so much from Toyama. Since I learned that I would be living in Toyama, I was not going to forgive myself if i never went to Korea, beacuse its so close. There are boats that will take you to Pusan (and, if you listen to Japanese people, they also take stolen bikes and cars), and the local airport even has flights to Korea, thereby earning the name "International Airport". This is all misleading, however, as the flights only go on wedensdays, and the boat is very slow (and dangerous, if you listen to). It was cheaper and simpler to catch a night bus to Tokyo, sleeping at an internet cafe for 3 hours, and taking the slow trains to Narita Airport. I was literally going in the opposite direction of Korea.
Planes
I flew Asiana Airlines, which apparently is a South Korean company. I'm never fussy about which airlines I take, as long as the majority of stewardesses are not white. I don't know, I have had so many bad experiences with white stewardesses. Once, just days after I turned 18, I asked the Air New Zealand stewardess for a beer. It was for the sheer novelty of it. But two minutes later, she came back and took the beer back! It was something to do with the program I was travelling with, but wow, what a bitch. Another time, I asked for a coffee. I swear, these were the exact words she said:
"go get it yourself".
So I did. I went to the back of the plane, where 3 stewardesses were sitting around chatting. I didn't know where the coffee was kept, and wasn't keen to rummage through the compartments, especially not after 9/11. So I asked the male stewardess where the coffee was. I never did end up getting that coffee. It seems like white stewardesses are trained to be bitches (even the male ones), and usually they are not pretty enough to be forgiven for that (even the male ones).
On this flight, there were no complaints, and unlike Air New Zealand which will serve you a cup of mineral water on the 3 hour flight to Australia, on this 2 hour flight to Korea, the lunch was actually good. I especially liked it how they didn't give an option of meat, fish or vegetarian. I mean, I usually end up getting the worst looking meal.
I had a window seat, and we flew right by Mt. Fuji at sunset. It started off as just a triangle silhouette rising above the fluffy clouds. It was a friendly goodbye from a country I needed a break from.
Customs
"Do you have a Korean Visa?", the customs officer at Incheon (Seoul) Airport asked me.
"...uuuh... no", I replied, suddenly hit with the memories of Shanghai earlier this year. Dammit, how could I have overlooked the visa situation in Korea? Sure the internet travel agencies are cheaper, but they don't give a shit about service.
"Okay", the customs officer said, giving my passport one last pretend glance, "enjoy your stay".
Buses and cars.
I have a natural fear of buses. Especially ones driven by people who speak in other languages. You just have no idea whether he is taking you to the next stop, or driving in the complete opposite direction to the edge of the forest. Most of my bus driver characterisation also comes from New Zealand, where they are never on time, will hardly wait for you to get on or off before driving off, and still have the nerve to strike for a payraise that would make it the equivalent to that of a teacher. They are dirvers! For poor people! And they only drive in circles or straight lines! And you want a payraise so you can be more of an asshole?
The airport bus from Seoul was fine. Apparently there are 10,000 buses running in Seoul at any time. A bit later in the week, I was on one of these buses. This was terrifying. It was similar to the taxi drivers in Shanghai. I complain a lot about drivers in Japan, and rightfully so. In Japan, Japanese drivers don't know what they are doing. In Korea, Korean drivers don't know what everyone else is doing. Drivers use their horns more than their brakes. They use their horns more than they use their indicators. They use their horns more than they use their mirrors. They use their horns more than they use any apparent systemof road rules. The only road rule that everyone appeared to follow was driving on the right-hand side.
This surprised me a little bit, since Japan is so close, and basically built all of Korea's infastructure during the occupation (after destroying most of it, but let us not be pedantic about it). But then, choosing which side of the road a country drives their cars on has always been more political than logical.) I was a little bit worried about this, as I usually fare particularly badly in countries that drive on the right. I couldn't count the amount of times my brother pulled me out of traffic's way when I was in holland.
Later on in the week, I was on a bus during rush hour. There was one seat right at the back, but I decided I would stand and leave the seat for an old person. The bus pulled out into traffic. I swear, a rocket take-off would be more comfortable. I was manhandled, flung around like Christina Aguilera's panties, as the driver angrily made his way to my destination. A nice lady gave me a "don't be stupid and sit your ass down" toned call, and I was grateful. The driver was either accellerating as fast as he could, or braking as hard as he could. A woman got on the bus. She was holding a baby that was surely still single-digit weeks old. There were no seats left, so she stood. The driver didn't care, and kept driving as he was. It was shocking, but the thing is, she didn't seem to care either. Never have I been so impressed to see someone stand up.
Trains
The subway system in Seoul is brilliant. 1/4 of Korea's population lives in Seoul (10million), and double that are within the greater Seoul area. The Subway system caters for this. In Japan, there are several different lines run by different companies in the same city. This means to get to some places, you will need to leave one station, walk to the next one and pay a different fare. Especially if you are taking JR, the official Japanese Train line, you will be paying too much. Take a look at the railway map of Tokyo.
Getting there
Like most foreign countries, Korea requires travel to get there. Although, not so much from Toyama. Since I learned that I would be living in Toyama, I was not going to forgive myself if i never went to Korea, beacuse its so close. There are boats that will take you to Pusan (and, if you listen to Japanese people, they also take stolen bikes and cars), and the local airport even has flights to Korea, thereby earning the name "International Airport". This is all misleading, however, as the flights only go on wedensdays, and the boat is very slow (and dangerous, if you listen to). It was cheaper and simpler to catch a night bus to Tokyo, sleeping at an internet cafe for 3 hours, and taking the slow trains to Narita Airport. I was literally going in the opposite direction of Korea.
Planes
I flew Asiana Airlines, which apparently is a South Korean company. I'm never fussy about which airlines I take, as long as the majority of stewardesses are not white. I don't know, I have had so many bad experiences with white stewardesses. Once, just days after I turned 18, I asked the Air New Zealand stewardess for a beer. It was for the sheer novelty of it. But two minutes later, she came back and took the beer back! It was something to do with the program I was travelling with, but wow, what a bitch. Another time, I asked for a coffee. I swear, these were the exact words she said:
"go get it yourself".
So I did. I went to the back of the plane, where 3 stewardesses were sitting around chatting. I didn't know where the coffee was kept, and wasn't keen to rummage through the compartments, especially not after 9/11. So I asked the male stewardess where the coffee was. I never did end up getting that coffee. It seems like white stewardesses are trained to be bitches (even the male ones), and usually they are not pretty enough to be forgiven for that (even the male ones).
On this flight, there were no complaints, and unlike Air New Zealand which will serve you a cup of mineral water on the 3 hour flight to Australia, on this 2 hour flight to Korea, the lunch was actually good. I especially liked it how they didn't give an option of meat, fish or vegetarian. I mean, I usually end up getting the worst looking meal.
I had a window seat, and we flew right by Mt. Fuji at sunset. It started off as just a triangle silhouette rising above the fluffy clouds. It was a friendly goodbye from a country I needed a break from.
Customs
"Do you have a Korean Visa?", the customs officer at Incheon (Seoul) Airport asked me.
"...uuuh... no", I replied, suddenly hit with the memories of Shanghai earlier this year. Dammit, how could I have overlooked the visa situation in Korea? Sure the internet travel agencies are cheaper, but they don't give a shit about service.
"Okay", the customs officer said, giving my passport one last pretend glance, "enjoy your stay".
Buses and cars.
I have a natural fear of buses. Especially ones driven by people who speak in other languages. You just have no idea whether he is taking you to the next stop, or driving in the complete opposite direction to the edge of the forest. Most of my bus driver characterisation also comes from New Zealand, where they are never on time, will hardly wait for you to get on or off before driving off, and still have the nerve to strike for a payraise that would make it the equivalent to that of a teacher. They are dirvers! For poor people! And they only drive in circles or straight lines! And you want a payraise so you can be more of an asshole?
The airport bus from Seoul was fine. Apparently there are 10,000 buses running in Seoul at any time. A bit later in the week, I was on one of these buses. This was terrifying. It was similar to the taxi drivers in Shanghai. I complain a lot about drivers in Japan, and rightfully so. In Japan, Japanese drivers don't know what they are doing. In Korea, Korean drivers don't know what everyone else is doing. Drivers use their horns more than their brakes. They use their horns more than they use their indicators. They use their horns more than they use their mirrors. They use their horns more than they use any apparent systemof road rules. The only road rule that everyone appeared to follow was driving on the right-hand side.
This surprised me a little bit, since Japan is so close, and basically built all of Korea's infastructure during the occupation (after destroying most of it, but let us not be pedantic about it). But then, choosing which side of the road a country drives their cars on has always been more political than logical.) I was a little bit worried about this, as I usually fare particularly badly in countries that drive on the right. I couldn't count the amount of times my brother pulled me out of traffic's way when I was in holland.
Later on in the week, I was on a bus during rush hour. There was one seat right at the back, but I decided I would stand and leave the seat for an old person. The bus pulled out into traffic. I swear, a rocket take-off would be more comfortable. I was manhandled, flung around like Christina Aguilera's panties, as the driver angrily made his way to my destination. A nice lady gave me a "don't be stupid and sit your ass down" toned call, and I was grateful. The driver was either accellerating as fast as he could, or braking as hard as he could. A woman got on the bus. She was holding a baby that was surely still single-digit weeks old. There were no seats left, so she stood. The driver didn't care, and kept driving as he was. It was shocking, but the thing is, she didn't seem to care either. Never have I been so impressed to see someone stand up.
Trains
The subway system in Seoul is brilliant. 1/4 of Korea's population lives in Seoul (10million), and double that are within the greater Seoul area. The Subway system caters for this. In Japan, there are several different lines run by different companies in the same city. This means to get to some places, you will need to leave one station, walk to the next one and pay a different fare. Especially if you are taking JR, the official Japanese Train line, you will be paying too much. Take a look at the railway map of Tokyo.
It looks like a smoker's intestine. Compare it to Seoul. 
It is all run by the same company, paying with the same cheap rates and every changeover can be made underground. It's brilliant. Where did Japan get the reputation for being organised and efficient? And the subway in Seoul is popular. During rush-hour, I would make an honest bet that Seoul is busier than Tokyo. At those moments, I appreciate being a head taller than most people. At least I could breathe. Sortof.
The subways are also entertaining, thanks to poor people. At less busy times, every now and then somebody will come on. They are like door-to-door salesmen, and they sell the most ridiculous things in an informercial style format. They will go to the middle of the train car, get everyone's attention and begin. One guy wearing a visor and his sleeves rolled up, started telling everyone of the benefits of these particular stockings. He had a mannequin leg from the knee down, which was wearing one of these stockings, and waving it infront of everyone. "Look!", he was surely saying. "They never slip!". Several times, a salesperson rolled a large stereo into the centre of the train car and played a song very loudly. The thing is, the CDs were entitled "golden oldies". Those awful songs that are actively avoided in English speaking countries. I don't understand how these songs are liked in asian countries. Was there a gross excess of these songs, and so they decided to send them to asia?
One lady tried selling a hand-held sewing machine. The most fascinating one had to be a guy selling gum. He simply walked down the train car, and quietly placed a packet of gum on the knees of people sitting down. Then he walked back down and collected them back up, presumably hoping someone had opened it, constituting a sale. I was glad I was sitting. The people sitting down seemed so unaffected. It must happen so often. The thing is, I only ever saw one person make a sale (the guy with the stockings). I told my friend there, and she said "they were old people, right?". Yes. Buying from these salespeople is frowned apon, so the only people to not care enough are old people. Bless their failing hearts, because it makes the trains so much more entertaining.
Boats
My friend took me on a night boat trip, along the Han river, the reason why Seoul is the thriving city it is. The sheer amount of bridges is incredible. It really reminded me of Rotterdam. Of home. A city flattened in the war, rising from the dust in prosperity with ugly buldings that will only be considered beautiful in 50 years.
Walking
In Korea, walking has been a popular form of transportation for hundreds of years. The experience was greatly enhanced with the installment of the subways. I would get off at a stop, walk around until I get lost, and when I wanted to find myself again, the next subway wont take long to find. It was a great system. My friend's mother took me out for a day in Seoul. She is one of those people that list their hobby as "walking". I mean, I consider myself pretty fit, and I have long strides. I saw a video of myself last month walking alongside my mother. The first thing I thought was, is this playing in slow motion? But no, it was just me. My mother was walking normally. I take big steps, but I take them slowly. So, if I took my steps at a normal speed, I would easily keep up with a "walker", right?Never think you can keep up with "walkers". Despite my stride advantage, she dominated me. At the end of the day, there were still a few things on our plan that we didn't have time for. I have no doubt she could have kept to the plan, but she didn't allow for easy going dead-weight. It seems I still have much to learn about walking.
It is all run by the same company, paying with the same cheap rates and every changeover can be made underground. It's brilliant. Where did Japan get the reputation for being organised and efficient? And the subway in Seoul is popular. During rush-hour, I would make an honest bet that Seoul is busier than Tokyo. At those moments, I appreciate being a head taller than most people. At least I could breathe. Sortof.
The subways are also entertaining, thanks to poor people. At less busy times, every now and then somebody will come on. They are like door-to-door salesmen, and they sell the most ridiculous things in an informercial style format. They will go to the middle of the train car, get everyone's attention and begin. One guy wearing a visor and his sleeves rolled up, started telling everyone of the benefits of these particular stockings. He had a mannequin leg from the knee down, which was wearing one of these stockings, and waving it infront of everyone. "Look!", he was surely saying. "They never slip!". Several times, a salesperson rolled a large stereo into the centre of the train car and played a song very loudly. The thing is, the CDs were entitled "golden oldies". Those awful songs that are actively avoided in English speaking countries. I don't understand how these songs are liked in asian countries. Was there a gross excess of these songs, and so they decided to send them to asia?
One lady tried selling a hand-held sewing machine. The most fascinating one had to be a guy selling gum. He simply walked down the train car, and quietly placed a packet of gum on the knees of people sitting down. Then he walked back down and collected them back up, presumably hoping someone had opened it, constituting a sale. I was glad I was sitting. The people sitting down seemed so unaffected. It must happen so often. The thing is, I only ever saw one person make a sale (the guy with the stockings). I told my friend there, and she said "they were old people, right?". Yes. Buying from these salespeople is frowned apon, so the only people to not care enough are old people. Bless their failing hearts, because it makes the trains so much more entertaining.
Boats
My friend took me on a night boat trip, along the Han river, the reason why Seoul is the thriving city it is. The sheer amount of bridges is incredible. It really reminded me of Rotterdam. Of home. A city flattened in the war, rising from the dust in prosperity with ugly buldings that will only be considered beautiful in 50 years.
Walking
In Korea, walking has been a popular form of transportation for hundreds of years. The experience was greatly enhanced with the installment of the subways. I would get off at a stop, walk around until I get lost, and when I wanted to find myself again, the next subway wont take long to find. It was a great system. My friend's mother took me out for a day in Seoul. She is one of those people that list their hobby as "walking". I mean, I consider myself pretty fit, and I have long strides. I saw a video of myself last month walking alongside my mother. The first thing I thought was, is this playing in slow motion? But no, it was just me. My mother was walking normally. I take big steps, but I take them slowly. So, if I took my steps at a normal speed, I would easily keep up with a "walker", right?Never think you can keep up with "walkers". Despite my stride advantage, she dominated me. At the end of the day, there were still a few things on our plan that we didn't have time for. I have no doubt she could have kept to the plan, but she didn't allow for easy going dead-weight. It seems I still have much to learn about walking.
I've always said that I love travelling, as long as it's away from here. I wouldn't go as far as saying that getting there is half the fun, but its such a shame when people say they hate travelling. It doesn't matter how you go, just keeping your eyes open makes the journey so much more fun.
No comments:
Post a Comment